Steve's Foam Coat - New smoother formula!
Hard, crust-like shell for expanded polystyrene (foam). Developed as an alternative to Vanillacryl (TM). Tough and hard. Can be cut and machined.
Great for fake rock and fake bricks. Shrinks a little.
||FC-8||Foam Coat, 8 oz||$6.75|
||FC-16||Foam Coat, 1 pint||$10.24|
||FC-32||Foam Coat, 1 quart||$17.95|
||FC-128||Foam Coat, 1 gallon||$54.95|
||FC-640||Foam Coat, 5 gallons||$259.95|
Steve's Foam Coat - Fiber Glass Reinforced
Same as Steve's Foam Coat, but reinforced with fiberglass strands. This is very strong. In the process we lost some of the drilling and machining ability. It is also difficult to sand. Very low shrinkage. Very stable.
How to Use the Foam Coating
A spreader or brush seems to work best. Rolling takes skill and no one has tried to spray it yet. Best results can be accomplished in three steps.
1. ADHESION COAT. Brush or spread a thin layer on the Styrofoam surface. Let this dry between one and four hours. Do not touch this layer until dry.
2. BULK COAT. Brush or spread a very thick layer (1/16" or 1mm) Let this dry between two and four hours.
3. SMOOTH COAT. Use a spreader and trowel on a thin layer. Let this dry three to four hours before handling. Let it dry for maximum hardness overnight. Cross linking of the polymer will occur in about four days.
- Can be cut and machined. Drills easily.
- Sands smooth just like hardwood.
- Doesn't melt Styrofoam®.
- Strong, hard surface without the fumes of fiberglass.
- Lighter and stronger than comparable coatings.
- Doesn't need to be constantly stirred.
- Takes acrylic or latex acrylic paints very well.
- Can be cast as a stand alone product.
- Four layers over two-pound density foam are remarkably strong.
Have you ever wanted a hard surface coating EVA and Styrofoam?
This multi-use coating material was originally designed to replace Vanillacryl a specialized coating for styrofoam. Unfortunately at the time of this writing Vanillacryl is unavailable. Steve's Foam Coat is lighter and stronger than the original Vanillacryl and doesn't need the constant stirring that the other product required.
Unique characteristics of this product are its unusual strength and its ability to be cut, drilled, and sanded. Another desirable attribute is its ability to cross-bond, a molecular substructure that literally creates one giant molecule on the surface of the substrate.
Steve's foam coat is also very strong. Early reports show it may be as strong as fiberglass. It seems to take acrylic paint and latex acrylic paint very well, with smooth sharpe lines and excellent adhesion of the paints. You can waterproof Steve's Foam Coat with a heavy coating of a plastic sealer such as Kryolan's Plasticoat.
Preliminary tests show that Steve's Foam Coat can be cast in a silicone mold. Results on tests with a resin impregnated sawdust as a backing material should be available soon.
Steve's Foam coat is also remarkable for its ability to bind to previously stubborn materials, including polypropylene and aluminum metal. Sand, degrease, and clean these materials before attempting to adhere Steve's Foam Coat to them. The coating will adhere to polyurethane foam, expanded styrene foam, and styrene. It will also stick to your clothes, shoes, and unprotected skin, so be careful.
User must test the quality and performance of this product before committing to a large project. Do not dilute nor mix with any other products as this will render invalid any warranty and render it useless.
Allow three or four hours for the first coat to dry. Additional coats may be applied when the previous coat is dry to the touch.
After the initial coating, do not touch for three or four hours! Binding will not begin to occur until the product is nearly dry.
|Steve Biggs' Original Foam Coat|
|Method of Application:||Spreader, Trowel, Brush|
|Base:||Modified Acrylic Resin|
|Color:||Slight cream color|
|Solvent:||(none) water based|
|Shelf life:||Undetermined at this time (stable) several months so far if kept in the original, unopened container.|
|Adhesion:||Excellent to foams, styrene, p/p, alum.|
|Flammability:||Will burn when dry, not flame retarded|
|Water barrier:||Moisture will eventually migrate through this material if soaked. Weather-proof top-coating is recommended|
|Clean up:||Use soap and water, with a small amount of household ammonia.|
|Net Weight per gallon:||8 lbs 4 ozs|
|Storage:||Keep in original container, tightly sealed, wipe brim before sealing container. Do not store in extreme temperatures.|
|Stir:||Stir well before use especially if contents have settled.|
|Drying/Curing times:||Allow the first coat to dry for three or four hours, depending on relative humidity. Do all your work within the first four days as the product will gain full strength in about five days. Full cross-bonding will occur in two weeks.|
Steve's Foam Coat FAQs
So this stuff doesn't eat Styrofoam?
That is correct.
What do I add to it to make it set?
Nothing, it is an air-dry system. No catalyst is needed.
How long does it take to dry?
Four and a half hours in our dry-desert heat. The second coat takes less time for some reason.
No harmful fumes?
No, its as harmful as common 100% acrylic house or craft paint.
Is it dangerous?
Yes, if misused just like anything else. Please don't eat it, drink it or swim in it. Wear gloves and eye protection. I read one study where Styrene is linked to cancer. My product does contain liquid styrene. EPS is styrene. Right now there is only one study out, we'll need to wait for more tests to make sure the theory is correct.
Do you still have Vanillacryl?
No. We stopped selling it several years ago because we couldn't depend on our supplier. That forced us to develop Steve's Foam Coat.
So what's the difference between Steve's Foam Coat and Vanillacryl?
Chemically these are different products. It's not known what is in the Vanillacryl but SFC is an acrylic base. In terms of product the Vanillacryl was weather tested and works great for outdoor signs, it did not shrink, was hard as promised. I still recommend it if you can find it. SFC is more expensive, it does shrink a little and takes paint very well.
Can Steve's Foam Coat be used outdoors?
It's not been weather tested but we've had many customers who have used it outside. I just doesn't have a track record for outdoor use. We spilled some in my truck two years ago and it held up just fine for about a year. I'd say paint it with a good outdoor primer/sealer and don't make promises you can't keep.
Whats the best way to paint it?
A spreader, then a fine brush. It can't be rolled. Some people have sprayed it but it took some real experimentation with a Heavy Body Sprayer.
What is it's coverage?
One gallon will give you about 50 square feet, one coat, .040? thick.
Can I texture it?
It has some body and some texture I can best describe as Cream-o-Wheat. If you just want to take the surface out of the EPS use our Retexuring compound, which can be sprayed.
So I can't get it smooth, right?
Yes, if you are good with a spreader. It can be sanded, but that is a lot of work.
I can sand it, right?
Yes, but this stuff is really hard. Imagine painting your EPS with a layer of oak or maple wood. I use the biggest grit of sandpaper I can get, like 40.
What do you mean when you say it shrinks, isn't that a good thing?
Up to a point. If you have long skinny strips it will bow them. Use the Re-Tex or Fiberglass version instead. Shrinkage is good when you really want something to be strong, but that something has to be a fairly big or strong block of foam.
Can it be painted?
It was designed to be be painted. It actually takes paint better than paper. It's natural color is sort of a natural creamy white.
Does it come in colors?
Nope, not needed. If you want to color it you can do it yourself with the water based tinting agent you get at the paint store. You can also use the artist's acrylic paint you get in the tube at the art store.
Can you build up the layers?
Yes, as many as you want, it just becomes a thick, strong layer of plastic on the surface. Very strong.
Is it as strong as fiberglass?
I don't think so. Epoxy and polyester are very tough resins. You can use the SFC like you would use polyester resin in fiberglass. remember that the strength in fiberglass comes from the glass fibers not the resin, the resin just holds everything together.
So let me get this right, I can use the SFC like I would use common polyester fiberglass.
Yes, but my stuff doesn't stink. Use it to laminate the glass cloth or matte just like any other resin.